转自：烟台发布
I had Spanish mackerel dumplings for the first time in Penglai. At the sight of the dumplings in the diameter of over ten centimeters in the bowl, I almost thought it was a pantry mistakenly taken by the waiter. However, just a bite would manifest the tender and juicy fish from thin and lucid wrappings, which was full of fresh mellowness simply irresistible to me.
我第一次吃鲅鱼饺子是在蓬莱，望着碗里那只直径十多厘米的饺子，差点以为服务员错拿了一张面饼。可一口下去，薄而透明的面皮里露出白嫩多汁的鱼肉，鲜甜四溢，简直叫我欲罢不能。
It is said that the Spanish mackerel dumplings smaller than the face in Yantai are mostly likely to be served by a seafood store run by people from other places. As for the origin of the fuller dumplings, it is more related to the special economic factor of Yantai: the developed fishery industry and insufficient farming laborers in old Yantai led to the phenomenon that fish was less expensive than flour and flour was more expensive than fish. As a result, when it came to dumpling wrapping, Yantai locals racked their brains and tried to make dumplings with less flour and more fish, bringing about fuller dumplings. Nevertheless, whatever size dumplings are in, the Spanish mackerel fillings must be most fresh and absolutely away from various spices so that it can be genuine and tasty.
听说，在烟台如果吃到了比脸小的鲅鱼饺子，那极有可能是外地人开的海鲜店。至于这大馅儿饺子的由来，更有着烟台特殊的经济因素：老烟台渔业发达，从事耕种的人少，故而导致了鱼比面贱、面比鱼贵的情况。所以在包饺子这件事上，烟台人便想尽办法，尽可能少用面粉多包鱼肉，这才有了大馅儿饺子。可是，不管这饺子是大是小，里面的鲅鱼都必须是最新鲜的，还绝对不能放那些七七八八的香料，只吃个纯正鲜味。
As is said by Yantai locals, “A good mood is right for Spanish mackerel dumplings.” A dish of Spanish mackerel dumplings might be the barometer of happiness for people here. In contrast of the crudeness of traditional Lu cuisine, Spanish mackerel dumplings constitute a better reflection of gentleness and tenderness uneasy to be perceived by Jiaodong locals. A bite of the delicate and smooth fish in soft wraps fills the mouth with aroma. Therefore, when I eat dumplings in Yantai, I would often think whether such immortals as Lyu Dongbin and Zhang Guolao had eaten the delicacy in Yantai at that time. If so, how could they bear to go across the sea and leave here?
烟台人常说：“心情好，鲅鱼饺。”一盘鲅鱼饺子恐怕就是这里人们的幸福晴雨表了。而相对于传统鲁菜的粗犷而言，鲅鱼饺子更体现出了胶东人不易被人察觉的温柔细腻。细滑的鱼肉、柔软的面皮，咬一口，吹弹得破，吃一个，满口余香。所以，我在烟台吃鲅鱼饺子的时候常常会想：当年，吕洞宾、张果老这几位神仙吃过烟台的这口美味吗？如果吃过，他们又怎么舍得渡海而去呢？
编辑/栾悦
监制/张海明
审核/烟台市人民政府新闻办公室
